MÉLILOT SHIRT by Deer and Doe

Fabric used: Viscose, cotton lawn.

How is the sizing? The fit is relaxed with shaping around the waist. The pattern comes in sizes 34 – 52 (EU) in PDF, 34-46 printed. 

How clear are the instructions? Very good.

Is it worth buying? I can highly recommend this pattern, it’s a classic! The price isn’t ridiculous either, €11.

This pattern is a few years old but I can’t see how it would ever go out of style. It’s a classic shirt with a fresh update. There is so much I like about it – the rounded collar, the drop shoulder which makes the sleeve insertion quick and easy, the curved hem, the overall shape… Yes, I’m a fan.

My first version was in cotton lawn and it worked really well. This is definitely one of my most worn items.

Look at this happy soul, she loves her shirt

Deep in thought or grumpy?

I cut a size smaller than the size based on body measurements. I always check the finished garment measurements and go from there. In something like cotton lawn I wouldn’t want too much ease, however for my second version, in viscose, I cut the actual size listed for my body measurement.

The construction is straight forward. If you never made a shirt before, this would be a great pattern to start with as there are no “traditional” sleeves to insert. If you’re unsure about tackling the full collar, you can make View B which has just the collar stand.

Sienna’s jumpsuit is Simplicity 8146 which comes in adult,child and a doll size

Pockets = happiness

There lots of lovely versions of this pattern on Instagram, it looks good on everyone! I can highly recommend it.

Monika x

PS: If you are worried about sewing collars, here is a great blog post on how to tackle them “10 tips and tricks”.

Jenny Overalls by Closet Case Patterns Review

Fabric used:
 I wish I knew what it is, some mysterious blend I bought in Spain 2019.

How is the sizing? I went with the recommended size based on my hip measurements only. I didn’t grade down for my waist or chest because I wanted the dungarees to be a bit more loose fitting. The pattern comes in size 0-20.

How clear are the instructions? Excellent as always with CCP.

Is it worth buying? I must confess it did hurt paying $16 for a PDF…but I got over once I started sewing. This is a pattern I will make over and over and the quality of drafting is worth it.

I went for the short dungarees version, view B. This pattern is designed to be quite fitted. I wanted a comfy pair of dungarees so instead of my usual grading in between the sizes I went with my hip measurement and cut size 12 (instead of grading from 8 to 12). This was enough to give my plenty of breathing space, although I wish I made the bib a bit smaller.

The construction was straight forward, no head scratching involved. There is an option for 1 or 2 side zips, depending on how much wiggle room you need. The instructions clearly explain how to tackle this. You can swap the zip for buttons, if you prefer. I was tempted to do that but with the stripes I thought I’d better keep it clean.

I like the slanted pockets so much I celebrated them with a bit of piping. I’m trying not to rush my projects as I always regret sloppy finish. I’m constantly thinking about the next project I’m going to make and sometimes the finish shows that.

Overall, I’m very happy with this pattern, it didn’t disappoint. There are simpler and cheaper patterns for dungarees out there but Closet Case always works for me. I also think that this is drafted to be more grown-up than some other patterns I’ve seen, not that my fabric choice reflects that 🙂

My next version will be View A in denim and I quite like the look of the trousers too. Watch this space.

Monika x

Hampton Jean / Denim Jacket by Alina Sewing Design Co Review

Fabric used: Heavy denim

How is the sizing? I made a size smaller and I’m very happy with the fit. It looks just like the line drawings. The pattern comes in sizes 0-18. Not that size inclusive.

How clear are the instructions? Very good. The welt pockets tested me though.

Is it worth buying? I didn’t have to do any alteration so it was worth the $15. However, if you have a bigger bust I’m unsure this would work that well.

The Process Review

I’m going to state the obvious here – this jean jacket pattern is a time-consuming sewing project.

You can see from the line drawing that there are quite a few panels to cut out and to overlock. After that you can go wild with denim distressing. My colleague gave me a tip after I finished the jacket – apparently rubbing it against a brick wall is the way to go…or at least that’s what her dad did in the 80’s. Do you remember that Kate Moss advert when she looks into the camera and says “Get the London look”? I imagine those trashed jackets were the London look back then.

The sewalong on Alina Sewing and Design site has all the information you need. All I would say is make sure you have a heavy duty needle and some clips. When you sew the bottom band you will have a lot of layers to work with so holding them together will be just as important as a heavy duty needle.

Let’s look at some close ups. I think it’s important to accept that your topstitching probably won’t be 100% perfect on the whole jacket. Maybe it’s just me but with the bulky seams it was pretty difficult and I’m willing to unpick only so many times.

I wear this jacket a lot, it goes with pretty much everything and I love it. I’d like to make a dark denim version too but I have to be in the right state of mind for this project. It took me about 16 hours from start to finish and right now I want quick and easy wins.

Monika x