Morgan Jeans or Ginger Jeans? Which one is better?

I’ve made the Ginger Jeans by Closet Core (previously Closet Case Patterns) 5 times and as much as I love that pattern I was keen to add a nice pair of boyfriend jeans to my wardrobe.

I have literally just finished the Morgans so it’s a good time to compare these two patterns and see what the main differences are.

Both of these patterns are pretty “old” with plenty of positive reviews so I won’t go into too many details and keep it brief.

Let’s talk about the fit. The Ginger Jeans are skinny with high waist and low + mid-rise options, designed for stretch denim. Morgans are mid-rise, slim leg cut, slightly slouchier fit, designed for non-stretch denim. You can see the difference in the pictures below (ignore the sleepy face on the left).

Zip vs buttons

I really love the button fly on Morgans, I’m a convert! I don’t think I want a zip in my jeans ever again. The Gingers are designed with a zip but you could easily replace it with the button fly.

Pockets

Gingers also have an option for pocket stays. Not that comfy but it does keep your tummy in. Morgans don’t have this option but it could be easily done by extending the pocket linings.

I think the pockets are the hardest bit because I spend way too much time trying to come up with something original and always end up doing the same old – just topstitching and nothing else. This time I actually went for something different and added some hand embroidery. Simple triangles in DMC variegated thread, I’m so happy with the way they turned out!

In therms of constructions, they are both very easy to put together. I made Gingers after just 1 year of learning to sew. They weren’t perfect but they were wearable. My second pair was my favourite and I wore them to death..until the zip broke (I used a cheap zip, please spend extra £1 and get a proper brand). The Closet Core Patterns have fantastic sewalongs and fitting tips.

These patterns might cost more than the Big 4 but the instructions and attention to detail is absolutely worth every penny, no regrets here. If you haven’t made jeans before, you can definitely do it. If you’re not sure which pattern to choose, and like the look of both, I would suggest to go for the Gingers. You’ll be working with stretch denim and it’s much more forgiving when it comes to fitting. You will also have the option of high waist or mid-rise so perhaps it’s a bit more versatile.

Right now I’m preparing Christmas embroidery kits, making face masks and hoping to finish the new Tamsin dress by BHL. Have you seen it? It’s gorgeous!

Thank you for reading and I hope you try to make jeans if it’s something you haven’t done before and need some new ones 🙂

Monika x

Simplicity 8957 Trousers Review

Image of pattern envelope from Simplicity.com

Fabric used: Poly Viscose Tartan Suiting Dress in Brown

How is the sizing? The pattern comes in sizes 8-22.

How clear are the instructions? Good, no construction issues.

Is it worth buying? When it’s on a sale, yes 🙂 I think the fit is a bit strange but then I never fit the standard sizing so it might the case of “sorry, it’s not you, it’s me”.

The process

This year I’m on a mission to add more trousers and shorts to my wardrobe. After making the Montauk trousers, Ginger jeans and Jenny overalls I thought this Simplicity 8957 trousers pattern would be a good addition to my wardrobe.

I checked the finished measurements to pick my size. After basting them together and trying them on I nearly cried sewing tears. Big loose trouser leg, baggy front/crotch and too tight around my butt. What? How? Why?

I reduced the seam allowance at the back and sides and that was enough to fix my “hungry bum” issue. I pinned the leg sides and kept fiddling with the them until I was happy with the fit. To fix the baggy front I increased the seam allowance around the upper thigh area and it did the job.

I thought the instructions were good but for the fly front zipper I used my trusted tutorial by Close Case Patterns (opens in new tab). My welt pockets at the back are for show only. I never use back pockets so I didn’t bother making them functional.

Back view of simplicity 8957 trousers, featuring faux welt pockets. Wearing black Adrienne blouse with gathered sleves

Overall, I feel that all my amateurish fitting efforts were worth it. I’m happy with the way they look and feel, they are extremely comfortable too, which is amazing since the fabric isn’t stretchy at all. This pattern cost me a fiver so I’m not going to complain too much as it gave me a good starting point to create something that fits me. RTW would never fit me in woven fabric without any stretch.

I think these trousers can be worn with pretty much anything and I’m looking forward to wearing them with chunky cardigans and jumpers in the autumn.

I think they look great with another new make – the Adrienne blouse by Friday Pattern Company. It was one of the quickest makes ever and I will definitely sew it again. The front and back bodice pieces are the same, so cutting out is very quick. Just what I needed after my fitting nightmare and unpicking.

I really need to look into proper fitting techniques or even better, to create a block? I’ve just purchased the Gabi bodice block pattern, let’s see how that goes first 🙂

Monika x

Monika wearing Simplicity 8957 trousers in brown viscose and white T-shirt, White converse trainers.
Monika wearing Simplicity 8957 trousers and Adrienne blouse, standing in the garden, holding black handbag.
Monika standing in the kitchen wearing Simplicity 8957 trousers with black Adrienne blouse.

Jenny Overalls by Closet Case Patterns Review


Fabric used:
 I wish I knew what it is, some mysterious blend I bought in Spain 2019.

How is the sizing? I went with the recommended size based on my hip measurements only. I didn’t grade down for my waist or chest because I wanted the dungarees to be a bit more loose fitting. The pattern comes in size 0-20.

How clear are the instructions? Excellent as always with CCP.

Is it worth buying? I must confess it did hurt paying $16 for a PDF…but I got over once I started sewing. This is a pattern I will make over and over and the quality of drafting is worth it.

I went for the short dungarees version, view B. This pattern is designed to be quite fitted. I wanted a comfy pair of dungarees so instead of my usual grading in between the sizes I went with my hip measurement and cut size 12 (instead of grading from 8 to 12). This was enough to give my plenty of breathing space, although I wish I made the bib a bit smaller.

The construction was straight forward, no head scratching involved. There is an option for 1 or 2 side zips, depending on how much wiggle room you need. The instructions clearly explain how to tackle this. You can swap the zip for buttons, if you prefer. I was tempted to do that but with the stripes I thought I’d better keep it clean.

I like the slanted pockets so much I celebrated them with a bit of piping. I’m trying not to rush my projects as I always regret sloppy finish. I’m constantly thinking about the next project I’m going to make and sometimes the finish shows that.

Overall, I’m very happy with this pattern, it didn’t disappoint. There are simpler and cheaper patterns for dungarees out there but Closet Case always works for me. I also think that this is drafted to be more grown-up than some other patterns I’ve seen, not that my fabric choice reflects that 🙂

My next version will be View A in denim and I quite like the look of the trousers too. Watch this space.

Monika x

Simplicity Pattern 8146 Matching outfits for Misses, Child and 18″ Doll

Fabric used: Viscose, cotton lawn

How is the sizing? As with all Simplicity patterns, it runs big but it works for this loose fitting jumpsuit/dress. The pattern comes in sizes XS-XL and child 3-8.

How clear are the instructions? I found them clear, no issues.

Is it worth buying? It’s worth every penny. You are getting 6 patterns in 1. Bargain!

If you are interested in making a jumpsuit and not sure where to start, I could highly recommend this pattern. With its loose fit and simple elasticated waist, you will eliminate the usual fitting issues that come with trousers and jumpsuits in general. The dress is easy too, suitable for a beginner.

I had 2 metres of this black and white viscose and it was enough for 3 jumpsuits, plus matching bias binding..but not enough to pattern match.

The pattern came together really fast, especially the kids and the doll version. You sew the trousers and bodice together and the elastic goes between the seam allowances. There is a button fastening at the back but I don’t think you need it. I never undo my one and I didn’t bother with buttons for Sienna’s outfits.

I made a black and white matching collection for #sewtogetherforsummer challenge in 2019. It’s an Instagram sewing challenge co-hosted by myself and my friends Sarah (@sewsarahsmith) and Suzy (@sewing_in_spain).

Sienna did really well out of this pattern – I made 3 jumpsuits and 3 dresses for her. I highly recommend this pattern, easy peasy!

Monika x

Camping in Forest of Dean, I look so glam by the bin bags
First day in Ibiza
Thank you for stopping by 🙂

Montauk Trousers by Liesl and Co Review

What fabric did I use? Viscose. It recommends linen, cotton or wool suiting.

How is the sizing? I cut the size recommended by the pattern. The fit is very good. This pattern is for a taller person. I’m 5’5 (165cm) and these were extremely long.

How clear are the instructions? Very good.

Is it worth buying? If you’re looking for semi fitted pull-on trousers, than Montauk trousers are for you, yes. If you’re a taller person even bigger yes. I bought the PDF version and it was the best experience I’ve had so far with assembling a print out!

Montauk trousers pattern cover
Drawing lines and samples

I fell in love with this pattern pattern as soon I saw it on Foldline. It features front pockets and welt or patch pockets on the back. It has some nice details such as the slits and subtle paper bag effect at the waist. I didn’t do the drawstring closure, I opted for a simple tie belt instead.

This is a quick and easy make so I won’t bore you with the progress photos and lots of text. Instead there’s me posing by the roses trying to look casual and natural. The trousers don’t looks semi fitted on these photos because I’ve literally just washed them. The viscose stretches out, I promise.

I didn’t bother with the toile as I wanted a quick make and with the elasticated waist there isn’t a lot that can go wrong. Just make sure you are honest with your measurements and these will fit 🙂

One comment I would make is that the draw lines and the sample on the pattern cover don’t match. The draw lines represent the pattern accurately with straight leg but the samples look more tapered/slim leg. If you made these in linen, they would look like the draw lines.

Either way, there will be another pair of Montauk trousers. I’ll probably go for plain linen so they go with everything in my wardrobe. I will have to shorten the pattern properly but the main thing is that it actually fits me around my hips.

So many sewing plans, I’m sure most of you can relate!

Monika x

Montauk trousers in viscose fabric paired with Hampton Denim Jacket
Paired with Hampton Jean Jacket